By Candy Lesher, Chef/Guest Blogger, Foodies Like Us

One of the most memorable quotes regarding the origins of the various Middle Eastern cuisines came from a Levantine friend who loved to assert, “It was the Lebanese who taught the rest of the rest of the Middle East how to cook.” Feeling a bit testy after one of her culinary lectures, I (oh-so tactfully) reminded her that many of Lebanon’s treasured ingredients came from around the world; coffee originated in Ethiopia, yogurt via Russia, tomatoes from the Americas, and their beloved phyllo dough from Turkey, while spices and sesame seeds migrated in from India. She promptly affirmed my facts, then without missing a beat confidently continued “and thankfully the Lebanese were there to teach each of them how to properly use those ingredients.” Having eaten the authentic, exquisite dishes she’d prepared for us in her home, I was in no position to argue further.

Sadly, I had only memories of her well-prepared fare, so was skeptical but hopeful when invited to join a friend at the recently opened Mijana, on Scottsdale Road just north of Curry. Curious, I looked up the name and found that Mijana are the poetic lyrics that often begin Lebanese folk songs; they’re used to set the tone for the song, whether inspiring love, devotion, ethics or ideals.

Mijana was a far more expansive space, and far less ethnic in appearance than I had anticipated. You could throw quite a party here, no matter what your theme. The Sunday night we were there, two separate Lebanese families were doing just that. Note – anytime you check out an ethnic-inspired restaurant and the majority of patrons are from that culture, the meal holds promise.

Nibbling on a variety of the small plates, both hot and cold, called Mezza, I felt the tingling excitement of discovery; after so many lackluster eateries promising the real thing, had I finally found the attributes I’d experienced all those years ago? Mijana’s Hummus ($5) was clearly not made from canned garbanzo beans, possessing the almost white color, delicate flavor and velvet-like consistency that only comes from cooking the beans from scratch (about a 16-hour process when done properly); canned garbanzos are yellow-tinged, often tasting tinny and somewhat sour. The Babaghanouj ($5) had a sensuous smoky profile and silky texture, with no hint of bitterness. Dolmades ($6) were house-made and scrumptious, using chickpeas as a stuffing element; no ubiquitous canned versions here. Things were definitely looking up.

To my delight, Mijana’s Tabbouleh ($6) was the ideal proportion of parsley to bulgur wheat, about 80% parsley to 15% bulgur accented by a smattering of mint, tomato, scallion plus a well-balanced dressing of lemon juice and olive oil. Still, my favorite cold mezza was Labne; this luxurious spread of strained, thickened yogurt deftly seasoned with just a whisper of garlic and drizzled with heady olive oil was divine. Of course, it didn’t hurt to spread it on house-made pita bread baked in Mijana’s stone pita oven, the consummate accompaniment for every dish served throughout the evening. Save up your carb allowance, this pita is worth it.

There’s a nice assortment of hot Mezza too. Anyone who loves flaky phyllo dough encasing a savory filling will enjoy Sambusek ($6) sporting well-seasoned minced beef and pine nuts, Borek ($6) with feta, melting mozzarella and herbs, or Fatayer ($6) with spinach, onions, pine nuts and often-used herb, sumac. Sumac is a citrusy, salty seasoning used throughout much of the Middle East derived from drying and grinding sumac berries; it’s used during cooking to season but is also offered table-side as a condiment, replacing salt (a fabulous find for anyone reducing their sodium intake). The Mayanek ($7) of Lebanese sausages sautéed in olive oil and blessed with lemon juice was heavenly, as was Kibbe ($7). Kibbe is practically a national dish in Lebanon; this mix of bulgur, beef, pine nuts, onions and seasonings is shaped like a tiny football and fried, though there was no oily or greasy aspect whatsoever. Other don’t miss items include the Calamari ($8) of tender rings magically enriched by a feta-enhanced aioli sauce, the spicy Garlic Shrimp ($10) or traditional Falafel ($6), which again, were flavorful and not at all greasy or heavy like too many others I’ve encountered.

It’s not hard to see, our eyes were definitely bigger than our stomachs. Still, we applied ourselves further and nibbled on Mijana’s exemplary salads. I highly recommend Fattouch ($8) of crunchy romaine, onion, cucumber, radish and tomato or their nod to Greece (Greek Salad $8) that includes feta cheese and kalamata olives. The standout though is a Lentil Beet version ($8) that begins with romaine topped with a mix of brown lentils, cucumbers, parsley, caramelized onion and tomato, crowned with marinated beets and feta cheese.

Fortunately, we were able to give ourselves a much-needed rest before diving into entrées, by watching the evening’s entertainment offered Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings. This night, their witty emcee introduced us to a troupe of talented belly dancers performing lovely traditional dances. For those who have yet to enjoy such entertainment, do go with single dollar bills in your wallet. It’s traditional, gracious and much appreciated by the dancers to (tastefully) show your appreciation for their art by tucking them into their outfit. For husbands or boyfriends who are shy, or know they’ll receive dagger looks from significant others, simply hand it to your partner and let her do it. It works for me!

On to “Mashawi,” meaning “off the grill.” I was elated. Marinated and grilled Beef or Chicken Shawarma ($12) were textbook examples of the savory, tender morsels they should be. Kebabs, which included Chicken ($12), Beef tenderloin ($16), Lamb ($14), jumbo Shrimp ($17), Salmon ($17), Kofta of seasoned ground beef and lamb ($12) and Vegetables ($11) were superb and portions generous. Each of Mjana’s platters feature appropriate sides; lamb paired with grilled tomatoes and onions, Chicken with rice, salad and dreamy garlic dip (think Lebanese aioli), salmon with saffron rice and grilled veggies, and Kofta with rice, salad and tsatziki (mix of strained yogurt, diced cucumber, garlic and olive oil).

With all these wonderful items, I was surprised to see they still offered some pretty heavy-hitting house specialties, including Paella ($16). On yet another encounter, I experienced the Lebanese version of this oft-thought Spanish dish; it was scrumptious. Though I’ve yet to sample them – I’ve got Mijana’s Samke Harra of grilled then baked fish ($19), and spoon-tender Lamb Shank ($16) in my culinary sights for next visit.

With writing yet to do at home, Lebanese Coffee seemed a smart choice at the end of such a Herculean meal. That rousing blend of finely ground coffee, sugar and cardamom is the perfect accompaniment to Mijana’s house-made Baklava; this Lebanese version focuses more on pistachios and lightly sweetened syrup than the Greek version, which is much heavier with walnuts and honey. They also offer a very unique dessert of baked “cheese,” kind of a Lebanese cheesecake with honey, that was distinctive enough to earn my “startling-ly good” rating (it’s a culinary term – at least in my book).

Having later chatted with Mijana’s co-owners, Manessa Abinader and Thomas George, who owned a successful business in San Francisco, along with Mijana’s talented chef Samir, it was obvious that the goal of gracious hospitality and impeccably authentic Lebanese fare was finally attainable for Valley diners. All three are single-minded in this effort. I now understand the name too; Mijana is meant to inspire – only in this case, it inspires the joy that comes from celebrating life – and from at long last finding a really great, authentic Levantine restaurant.

Mijana

1290 N Scottsdale Road

Tempe, AZ 85281

480-829-4959

By Candy Lesher, Guest Chef/Blogger, Foodies Like Us

“Perfection” and “perfectionist” are much over-used terms these days. By proudly branding oneself a perfectionist and works or products nothing short thereof, many assert their goal has already been achieved. Reality is, more effort goes into creating their image than actually reaching the objective. Sad but true, a large number of chefs fall prey to this branding-above-achievement mindset.

Though far and few between, there are chefs willing to dedicate themselves to achieving a level of excellence attained only through devoting heroic amounts of resources, time and commitment towards perfecting their craft. Those chefs deserve to be celebrated. Croissant aficionados rejoice – Eugenia Theodosopoulos, chef and owner of Essence Bakery Café in Tempe, is one of them.

To comprehend Eugenia’s goal, that of offering flawless croissants like those from a great Parisian patisserie, you’ll need to understand her passion. Eugenia lived in France for five years and during that period, attended the École Lenôtre. This is not a culinary school dedicated to teaching cooks to become chefs; Lenôtre is for accomplished chefs who choose to perfect their expertise in specific fields, like bread making, pastries, sauces and more. The short two-week course on laminated breads Eugenia originally attended stretched into a six-month program, after she astutely offered to stay on and translate for English-speaking patrons (courses are taught in French only).

During that period, she made a life-long friend of chef par excellence Jean Louis Clement, MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France en Boulangerie/Veinnoiserie). The title of MOF is huge in the profession and recognized worldwide; Clement focused three years towards winning France’s ultimately prestigious baking competition. For perspective, there are thousands of French bakers, but only 32 have ever achieved that award, an honor so esteemed, the President of France himself bestows the medals. Having since retired from teaching at École Lenôtre, Clement now consults for the worlds most prominent chefs; if you’re chef for the King of Morocco and want to take your pastry or bread baking techniques to the next level – you call on Clement.

In fact, it was a trip to Morocco for just that, which Clement postponed to help his friend Eugenia recreate the level of croissant found only in the finest of Paris’ patisseries, right here in Arizona. He stayed a week, and began their baking epic by running fingers through the flour. Clement is so skilled, he could discern it’s various properties, like protein, moisture and starch levels, from touch alone; important because French flour is vastly different than American, making a monumental difference in exactly replicating the flavor and texture of Paris’ best. Ultimately, he created a custom blend for Eugenia that mimics France’s farine exactly. They also imported French butter (at almost $6 per pound) that offers 84% butterfat content, where European Plugra only hits about 82%, and American butter 80%; critical since laminated doughs heavily depend on the proportions of low moisture and high fat.

So how does one of the world’s most talented pastry chefs teach? If you’re thinking Gordon Ramsey scream fests, or curt look-down-your-nose directives, think again. Humble and kind, the charming Clement was more apt to jump behind the line during Essence’s busy lunch rush or hand out samples of their latest creations to thrilled patrons (no restaurateur worth their fleur de sel would disappoint regulars by shutting down, even for training of this magnitude). Behind the scenes, Clement continually coached Eugenia and her staff, directing them to “touch, touch, touch” for every step, opening them up to the tactile awareness of consistency, optimal temperature in both dough and butter, pressure needed to roll after each meticulous folding, and all important – when to refrigerate. Eugenia warmly noted that though training was focused, intense and exciting, Clement still found time to innocently flirt with all the women; a true Frenchman through and through.

Anyone who has made croissant dough knows, there’s a reason why finding a superlative Parisian version is so illusive – it’s one of the most difficult to master, even when you have the perfect ingredients. That’s why even seasoned bakers depend on the readily available, pre-made refrigerated stuff. It’s also time consuming; Eugenia begins on Thursday preparing for croissants she will bake on Saturday.

Knowledge fosters appreciation – making my first bite of her almond croissant even more remarkable. It was flawless. The outermost layers were crunchy, their almond profile kindled by Eugenia’s house-made almond syrup and augmented by slivers of toasted almonds, adding their own aromatic and textural personality. A multitude of tender inner stratums masterfully concealed a velvet-like almond cream. Overall, the unmistakable essence of delectable butter anointed the entire experience. I’m not referring to the bland, greasy stuff we’re used to but a mesmerizing butter-perfume that will waft through any respectable foodie’s dreams for months.

Eugenia is offering four unparalleled croissants. Besides the almond (my fav), her raisin runs a close second; raisins are soaked in water and rum, then accented by yet another heavenly pastry cream, the surrounding fragile layers being varnished with an apricot rum glaze (loved it and I’m not even a raisin fan). The chocolate croissant is a deceptively light double roll, each half secreting a small bar of French Cacao Berry chocolate. Eugenia’s classic crescent-shaped croissant rounds out the offering, and I can attest, it is anything but “plain.”

Though renowned for mind-blowing macarons, Eugenia and her bakery may soon be touted nationally for these unparalleled made-in-Arizona croissants. Which makes it even more imperative to reach the bakery early in the morning before you’re favorite is bought out (I’ve missed the mark twice already but found solace in a hazelnut macaron). If you’ve been to Paris and have craved a great croissant ever since – you’ll find it at Essence. If you’ve never been to Paris but want to experience what they’re truly supposed to taste like – you can, and you’ll be spending far less, which means more dollars to spend on croissants! Viva Fraçais perfection!

Essence Bakery Café

825 West University Drive

Tempe, AZ 85281

Phone  602 374 3739

http://www.essencebakery.com

By Kenta Usuzawa, Guest Blogger, Foodies Like Us

Today, on the southwest corner of Lincoln and Scottsdale stands the all too familiar sight of chain link fences and construction in progress, a harbinger of today’s economy where so many brazen ideas have been halted by dried up funding.

Here however, unlike many of the abandoned projects in the city, Lincoln Village Plaza plugs along with an ambitious 6 million dollar face lift that began earlier last year. As renovations continue and the parking lot once again becomes accessible we are reminded that hidden away here are some terrific stand out restaurants that continue to fight the good fight. Among them, the local legend Rancho Pinot, Fogo de Chao, a lavish Brazilian Steak House and as of six months ago, their newest neighbor humbly tucked away amidst rubble and steel, Tottie’s Asian Fusion 2.

To remind us of what her new little oasis has to offer, last week, Tottie did what any self respecting culinary maven would do, she threw a party, and true to her reputation, a party she delivered.

Introductions were made all around as guests meandered in, absorbing the striking décor; abundant with rich textures, colors and Orient inspired artwork.  Among the featured guests, was Tottie’s personal friend and respected local artist Gary Hostallero showcasing his portfolio of Orient inspired paintings.

Though Gary need not be present to see the shared mutual respect that these two artists have for each others’ passions (his work graces the walls of both this restaurant and the original Tottie’s Asian Fusion), he was there on this night to MC the party as well as generously sign his work for guests.

Magnums of wine seemed ever-flowing, and as all indulged in their personal libations of choice, a center set buffet table beckoned the guests to indulge.

All the while, everyone desperately waited for someone else to break the polite reserve, and be the first one to make a move towards the army of delectable nibbles waiting patiently.

Candy Lesher, former food writer, and also a close personal friend of Tottie’s gave everyone the thumbs up, immediately ceasing all hesitation and decorum as lines formed at all corners of the buffet.

First course brought us plate after plate of mini lettuce cups, half filled with Thai Chicken Salad with a little Tamarind soy, and the other with Yum Gai, a spicy minced meat salad with fresh mint and Thai herbs, both of which you can find variations of on the regular menu.

Thai Buffalo wings: sweet and sour, pleasantly plump…and not greasy at all, and a medley of Tempura battered seafood, including the classic shrimp and calamari joined by a little mahi-mahi. The parade of well deserved ooh’s and ah’s began.

More hors d’ oeuvre’s would follow in the interim along with the entertainment. Tottie’s Beef Stew (currently not on the menu) has a familiar profile to what mother used to make at home. Lip smacking-ly delicious and not overly spiced, swimming in that delectable sauce, sweet potato, carrots and of course more of that wonderful pulled short rib she used for the Yum Gai.

For many patrons, the famous Tottie Rolls ($7.50) were the highlight; the Thai style pork filled crispy egg rolls, served with mint and cilantro and lettuce to wrap them in.

Fans of Thai cuisine will find these all at once familiar yet distinctively unique, and a playfully hands on experience.  All of the dishes served, I would later be told, were either candidates for a new Spanish style Tapas menu slated for arrival in the next couple weeks, or the upcoming $5 happy hour menu.

So many great things to be excited for.

What sort of entertainment would we have to celebrate these Spanish inspired Asian Tapas?  Well, Tottie made the answer perfectly obvious for us, Yumi La Rosa, Tokyo born Flamenco Performer & friend brought the sheer energy and power of Flamenco to the floor, riveting to watch, whether you’re a fan of dancing with the stars or not.

Behind them, one of the world’s most accomplished Flamenco guitarists, Miguel Rodriguez provided the backdrop, tying it all together for a rousing and memorable performance. Afterwards all performers would change out of costume to enjoy in the festivities as well. It seems that everyone is family at Tottie’s Asian Fusion 2.

On an inevitable subsequent visit, we found that the pleasantly affordable prices we thought were reserved for lunch, were actually the dinner prices!

Despite the perfectly balanced ambiance, and heightened quality of culinary refinement, in the end you won’t be paying anymore than your favorite Chinese take-out place.

There is in effect, no contest. The menu comes fully loaded with Vietnamese and Thai favorites, all having benefited from the creative touch of a visionary, and all the Chinamerican standards your Sunday hangover could ask for. (ie Mongolian Beef, Kung Pao Chicken, etc.) The Potstickers ($7.50) were a side step away from the norm, semi flattened crescents, perfectly crispy, and satisfying and a great way to start.

For our dinner course, what began as mild disappointment when I found that the Salmon with Basil-Ginger Sauce ($12.95) came with a dark sauce instead of a lighter one that I expected (oh, fear thy dark brown goop that so many others pass off as sauce.) quickly turned into elated surprise, when I found that this was no dark brown goop, but a happy medium of silky flavor, with balanced interplay of both Thai Basil, and spikes of sassy ginger. The sauce was masterful, and more importantly, despite its appearance, subtle enough to recede when what I wanted to taste was the perfectly flaky grilled salmon on my fork.

I’m going to say it again: Masterful.

The Panang ($9.95), a spicy Thai curry with your choice of meat, also did not disappoint. We ordered a spice level of 6 out of 7, which was perfect for us after a pitcher of water and a few extra bowls of rice.

I imagine a 4 or 5 would suffice for most everyone else.

The ocean of curry as it was, was so generous in portion that we imagine, we’ll be enjoying it again, if not on several nights to follow, and was even boxed with an extra portion of rice for us to take home. In a time where every penny counts, the value this restaurant offers couldn’t possibly be overstated.

Ah, desserts.

At a period of the evening when so many Asian Restaurants disappoint, Tottie’s Asian Fusion 2 gleams with sparkling surprise. If you’re expecting to settle into some mundane green tea icecream or frozen distributor bought mochi, be prepared to be disappointed.

Here at Totties, everything is home made by Tottie herself. Starting with nearly a dozen homemade icecream’s, the superb balance of which I’ve only found one rival in the valley.

Favorites include Avocado, Peanut Butter, Lychee, and Coconut. Tottie proudly tells us that all of the icecream is made from coconut milk, completely dairy free, and even Vegan, if that’s important to you. Nut-Crusted Honey-Fried Bananas, Homemade Japanese Kabocha Pumpkin Custard and of course the classic Thai dessert, Mango Sticky Rice.

In short, these desserts not only blow away every other Asian Restaurant’s all too often meager offerings, it rivals the best of any desserts we’ve had in the valley, period. The power of homemade is never a thing to underestimate.

It’s largely accepted that sequels rarely live up to the prestige of the original.

Chef Tottie Kaya, has proven otherwise, and evolved once again. Tottie Kaya began her carreer in the valley in 2003 with the opening of her first restaurant Shanghai Palace. Quickly showing the valley that it was something more than your run of the mill take-out place,  In 2006 She would be featured on the cover of Food & Life Magazine as one of the valleys best new Chefs, quickly garnering the attention and support of local celebrity chefs and foodies alike.

Diving deeper into her skill set of Laotian, Thai and Vietnamese culinary roots, and the addition of an authentic Japanese Sushi Bar, it was then that Shanghai Palace became the first Tottie’s Asian Fusion, forever securing the sassy Lady from Laos in the valley’s public eye.

Like many, I knew Tottie’s name before ever having met her or even dining in her establishment.  Now with the 2^nd Fusion open for the last 6 months, when asked what’s next, she answers that she will be here at the restaurant, making quite certain that she makes a friend out of every guest that walks in, since that, more than anything, is what’s important to her.

Just who is Tottie? She’s the one sitting at your table after a wonderful meal, sharing life stories with you. She tells us that she learned everything she knows from her mother, a prestigious caterer in Laos, who used to cook for the King, and she offers these recipes with her own added touch to us. Food meant for royalty at these prices? We couldn’t be any more grateful.

Located in the Lincoln Village Shops. 6204 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste. 106 Scottsdale, AZ 85253. Tottie’s Asian Fusion is open Tuesday –Sunday 11am – 10pm. Closed Mondays. P (480) 998-8220 F (480) 998-8797 www.tottiesasianfusion.com