By Susie Timm, Chief Operating Foodie

Ahhhh, Barbeque. I love everything about it. From the crunchy bark of a perfectly smoked pork shoulder, to the chewy and tender texture of beef brisket.

I love a rich and spicy BBQ sauce. I love brown sugar based rubs. I love it so much that I am part of a professional BBQ team called Loot and Booty BBQ. We have competed and won in several Arizona and Kansas City competitions.

For as much as I love BBQ however, I am very, very picky about it. I think after spending a whole lot of time sleeping in parking lots and figuring out how to master competition Q, my perception of good BBQ has changed. I do not subscribe to the school of thought that says, “There’s no such thing as bad BBQ.”

That being said, I rarely, if ever, eat BBQ in restaurants. I did have a chance to try out Joe’s Real BBQ in Gilbert a month or so ago and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Many, many people have told me that I needed to venture northward to Bryan’s Black Mountain BBQ and give it my “Foodies Like Us” stamp of approval.

I drove up to Cave Creek with my expectations low. Though friends, who have excellent culinary prowess, have wholeheartedly endorsed Bryan’s, I was still dubious about the entire thing.

BBQ is sacred to me and I take it very seriously.

I arrived and did the sniff test. What’s that? Well, I strongly believe that one should be able to smell a BBQ joint prior to entering it.

I took a deep breath.

Ahhh…Ok, test #1. Passed with flying colors.

I entered and admired the western décor, cool neon sign and of course, was hit with a wave of smoky, meaty blissfully scented air.

Chef/Owner Bryan Dooley came over to the small table we were seated at, introduced himself and recommended we move to the long picnic table in the corner. We had decided to let him bring out various plates and specialties for us to taste instead of ordering straight off the menu. He said he would keep bringing us food until we said “uncle.” Evidently he thought we needed a LOT of table space. I would soon see how accurate that prediction was.

As soon as we were seated, I grabbed my iPhone and checked into Bryan’s on Foursquare. Immediately I received a barrage of responses on Twitter. My friend Kirti, a reluctant vegetarian, asked me to say hello to Bryan for her and to try the tomato sandwich.

In my head I thought, “um, really Kirti, reluctant or not, you are a vegetarian and I really don’t take BBQ joint advice from people who don’t eat…MEAT!!”

The first baskets Bryan brought out were of pulled chicken and pork and ribs and brisket.

I dove into the chicken like a woman who had not just returned from 6 days of eating adventures in NYC…

In competition BBQ, chicken is often the hardest meat to keep moist and juicy. After my first mouthful, I exclaimed to Jay, “Oh my goodness this chicken is amazing! So tender, so juicy!!” I could have eaten that entire pile of chicken myself, but had to tear away.

The pulled pork had a lovely pink smoke ring just below the bark on the end of some of the pieces. Both the chicken and pork had a small amount of sauce on them—barely enough to cover 10% of the meat. However, I LOVE BBQ that way. I am not a big sauce person on smoked meat. I like it to enhance, but not cover. Bryan does have heated sauce vats available for anyone to drown their meat with but I warn against it. Taste the true smoke flavor that the pecan wood imparts on the meat.

That speech over, I will say, the BBQ sauce is delicious and I am now a proud owner of a sample bottle!

Next I tasted the brisket with a judge’s eye/mouth. Our BBQ team has done extremely well in competition brisket so I am fairly judgmental of it. I pulled it apart and it had a little give, it was tender and just chewy enough. It also had a nice bark and smoke ring.

The ribs were tender, but not falling off the bone. That’s a good sign because falling off the bone indicates they are overdone. I liked the ribs and they were just fatty enough to impart extra flavor without being greasy.

The sides we sampled were a baked potato salad and coleslaw with olives in it as well as Bryan’s famous “Six Pack BBQ Beans.” We liked the creamy, dill flavor of the baked potato salad and the olives gave a salty taste to ordinary coleslaw. Neither Jay nor I were a big fan of the baked beans. Of course neither of us drink beer, so the overpowering beer flavor was a bit much for us.

Speaking of beer, Bryan has over 30 different craft beers by the bottle. I am sure my husband will be excited to hear that when we return.

Next we tried the romaine rib salad with a tangy lemon dressing. It was a crunchy and cooling treat between our meat courses. I liked that he sprinkled it with his BBQ rub.

At this point we were getting fairly full, but still game for more food.

Bryan brought over the 2 vegetarian dishes on the menu. A seasonal tomato sandwich made of red and yellow tomatoes sprinkled with smoked salt and topped with a molasses Dijon mayo. He also brought us a pulled squash sandwich.

We first tried the tomato sandwich. We bit in. We chewed thoughtfully. After about 20 seconds of silence, both Jay and I practically jumped up in the air and said, “Oh my goodness that sandwich is the bomb!”

It was everything a sandwich should be—the smoked salt made the difference and frankly, I would seek out Bryan’s just for that damn sandwich. Just don’t tell my BBQ pals that…

The pulled squash sandwich is a reasonable facsimile of a pulled pork sandwich. It was served piping hot on a crunchy, buttered roll. It was extremely buttery tasting. Bryan said many people get it with a fried egg on top. I understand why Phoenix Magazine voted it one of the top sandwiches of 2009!

Next, we tried the Firebird Chicken, glazed with habanero and honey. Bryan called it the “Half chicken from hell” and I can see why. It had a serious kick! Good thing I cooled it down with a piece of fresh watermelon drizzled with honey and topped with fresh, diced jalapenos.

We were pretty much stuffed by now, but were interested in tasting a few other items. He brought out “The Big Pig” which is a basket of fries smothered in baked beans, pulled pork, and jalapenos. I felt like I could take on that moniker after a few bites of its smoky deliciousness.

Finally, we told chef we were beyond full. Of course he brought out his signature ice cream sandwiches cut into small pieces. And of course, I had to try one. Ok, 3 but still… there’s ALWAYS room for ice cream.

I have tasted a lot of BBQ. I truly, have never tasted BBQ in a restaurant as good as Bryan’s. If he were to enter the competitive circuit, he would be a stand out success for certain.

Hell, Bryan’s is endorsed by vegetarians and carnivores alike. I think that says it all!!!

Not only is Bryan’s Black Mountain BBQ worth the drive, it’s inexpensive and truly a gem in Cave Creek. The menu I am writing this review from smells so much like BBQ that I might return in the next 7 days, as I am tempted with the lingering scent of heavenly meat.

 http://www.bryansbarbecue.com/