By Kenta Usuzawa, Guest Blogger, Foodies Like Us.com
When you’ve run in the independently owned, fine dining circuit long enough, you get an idea of where you should be eating and where you shouldn’t; giant corporate America is bad, Mom and Pop is good.
I’ve espoused this black and white theory countless times before, and watched some of my favorite restaurants go down in flames, theoretically snuffed out by the rolling automatons of Commercialized thought terminating cliché’s. Support your local small business owner and blacklist the chains, or our children will be eating Taco Bell for the rest of their lives. Unfortunately, it’s much easier said than done.
I, myself, am horrible at this sort of ethical eating. I order the Ground Chicken & Spicy Eggplant dish from P.F Changs religiously, and carefully scuttle the to-go bag in through the rear entrance of my independently owned employer and quickly transfer it to a neutral plate so as not to feel like I’ve betrayed the independent restaurant brotherhood.
Let’s face it, tasty is tasty regardless of who made it and where, and how many franchises they have in the chain. Sometimes what you need is not the re-invention of Haute-Cuisine and have no interest in being blown away by some maverick Chef du Jour; It’s in these moments that we reach out for the comforting lull of familiarity. Kabuki Japanese Restaurant in the Tempe Marketplace is very familiar…but is it worth reaching out for?

Kabuki at the Tempe Marketplace
Getting us off to a good start was the dangerously smooth Lychee Martini ($8.95), mixed with Grey Goose Vodka, Soho Lychee Liqueur and some lychee syrup in an ample sized glass. The follow up cocktail was again a well crafted Shiso Plum Saketini ($8.50), though to be completely honest, somewhat lacking in its shiso element, at which point you might just consider picking up a bottle of the Plum Sake instead.
Though the wine list was disappointingly pedestrian, the sake menu was out of this world, and stands apart from everything else in its authenticity, while managing accessibility for novice drinkers at the same time. Clearly a well thought out selection, I’d recommend it as one to cut your teeth on if Sake is something you’ve been interested in exploring. We chose to go with the lighter but dryer style Kikusui (Chrysanthemum Water) ($22.50).

Very impressive array of sake
With a lofty seventeen page menu beginning with six of those pages dedicated to the drinks, you might be making a statement about your priorities, and if so, Kabuki backs that up effortlessly.
Churning out no less than eleven pages of food, everyone, and I mean everyone is bound to find something to suit their palates at Kabuki.
Not one to let the little details go unnoticed, both the edamame and the miso soup deserve praise. Sort of like the garlic bread in an Italian restaurant, a seemingly small detail, could tell you quite a bit about what’s coming next.
The edamame was salted perfectly (harder than it sounds) and boiled to the right level of al dente. The miso soup was flavorful and rich without losing its subtlety.
For our first actual courses we chose two appetizers, opting to save the sushi as our main course. It’s difficult for me to pass up the opportunity for a nice Soft Shell Crab ($8.95) appetizer, and the deliciously creamy crab with its lightly crispy fried shell, was a homerun paired with what was one of the best ponzu sauces I’ve had in the states. It was the perfect balance of savory kombu and zesty citrus equating to Umami heaven. The highly recommended Korean BBQ Beef Ribs ($8.95) with their seductively sweet marinated meat also did not disappoint.

Delicous soft shell crab appetizer
In fact it seems that Kabuki really excels with their smaller plates, which may explain the entire page and a half devoted to appetizers alone. For larger fair, the menu really does cover the gamut offering up everything from Beef Yakisoba to Curry Shrimp.
A few standard goodies like Teriyaki Chicken & Vegetable Tempura seem to effortlessly rub shoulders with less authentic but comfortably named dishes like Grilled Shrimp Risotto and Chilean Sea Bass.
The sushi was another story altogether, a slight downer all in all, but this I blame towards a possible too tight adherence to food cost in this crumbling economy, as opposed to some criticism of the skill of the chef.
Everything “looked” great, was cut fine and proportioned perfectly. The Saba (Mackerel) ($3.95) however, was haunted by a vague sourness. My immediate thought was that it’s simply pickled with a little vinegar as many Chefs are apt to do to get a little more shelf life out of this naturally oily fish, which as an old Japanese saying goes, “spoils so rapidly that it starts stinking while it’s still swimming.” But the Chef sent back the message that they’ve done nothing with the fish.

Sushi: hardly the highpoint of our evening
Admittedly, testing a sushi bar on its Saba is going straight for the throat, but what we tasted may have indicated that it simply wasn’t a fish that was ordered often at Kabuki.
Likewise, the Uni (Sea Urchin) ($7.50) had seen better days, having acquired a tone closer to mottled brown then it did the day glow orange that fresh Uni should have. The Unagi (Fresh Water Eel) ($5.50), with the familiar slightly sticky sweet “Eel sauce” always a favorite, performed a little better but not quite enough to deliver the grand finale that we can usually count on it for.
The Hamachi (Halibut) ($4.50) and Tai (Snapper)($4.50) also struggled a bit as biting into both of these cuts, found the fish fighting back with a little tendon, a possible oversight in the filleting of the fish. Salvation came with the Sake (Salmon) ($5.50) and Maguro (Tuna) ($4.50), both shining through, letting us know that when it came to the sushi staples, a freshly revolving inventory made a world of difference.
If you stick to the basics here and don’t stray too far off the well beaten path, you should be in good enough hands. The cuts themselves were artfully accented with a decorative caper here, or a minute parsley leaf there, but perhaps there’s a need for management to look at the product more as a perishable goods rather than revenue.
Don’t get too adventurous here. Personal bias towards “fresh and clean” (or uncooked) sushi aside, we ordered that which the server emphatically heralded as their most popular roll, and were presented with the uber-rich, fully cooked Lotus Roll, essentially a California roll, with a creamy mayo lobster mix and some smelt roe heaped over the top. This is an easy crowd pleaser for the western palate, decadent, rich…and safe. We decided to ignore the newly advertised four cheese “Lasagna Roll” insert in the menu.

Special roll and Eel roll
On a savvy promotional move, Kabuki corporate marketers requested local food writers to come in and enjoy a discounted meal, to generate the appropriate “buzz.”
To add a more constructive angle, however, we decided to follow up the next afternoon for lunch; this time unannounced.
The host was, friendly, again yes…but this time, unaware that he had sat us at a table with crumbs scattered across the table.
Pleasantly we found the service to once again be friendly and prompt, though he as well missed the dirty table. This time the food was not so prompt, and in fact arrived at an almost complain-able saunter.
Spying one of my favorite Japanese Dishes, I immediately jumped on the Tonkatsu & Shrimp & Vegetable Tempura Combo ($10.95), which, despite the sparseness of Shrimp (one to the order) was very nicely presented with a nice delicate tempura sauce, and accompanied by a pleasantly breaded pork, served with a classic Tonkatsu sauce.
The Pear Endive Salad ($8.95), had hooked us by the name and ingredients regardless of not having a single Japanese ingredient in the recipe, promising Romaine Lettuce, Toasted Walnuts, Bacon and Blue Cheese served with a Plum Wine Dressing. It simply sounded like a perfect luncheon salad. Upon delivery the salad failed to…well, deliver.
The Plum Wine Dressing tasted only of oil and had no sign of having even a casual acquaintance with plum wine, let alone deserving to be called such. On an ample bed of romaine lettuce, with a smattering of watercress and four artfully positioned leafs of Endive, there were precisely three broken pieces of walnut, and four, possibly five pieces of pea sized bacon crumbles. (Yes we counted…the point being there was such a small amount we were ABLE to count them.) The pear sliced thinly over the top couldn’t possibly have amounted to more than one 1/12th of a pear, and on closer inspection the salad had no blue cheese whatsoever.
Upon asking the server if we had misread the ingredients he returned by telling us that the kitchen manager had confessed being out of blue cheese for the last couple of days and has been serving the salad without it, which is certainly excusable, but to make an alteration without alerting the guests and instead banking on them not noticing, is not.
Not wanting to take our chances on another salad we opted for a simple classic Chicken Teriyaki ($8.95), which though not offering any wow factor, would suffice for a casual lunch. The manager came out a little later, and told us that she was sorry we didn’t “like” the salad, and would kindly take the Pear Endive Salad (which we had sent back) off the bill, as if there was ever any question that she should. It was the same girl that greeted us the night before, but perhaps not with the same attitude.
A mediocre showing from the sushi bar and a misstep during lunch, however won’t stop the machine that is Kabuki, “…That’s what we do best” reads the website; “making non-believers into believers that Japanese cuisine is the new comfort food… you won’t be overwhelmed with Asian decor and music. What you will encounter is a casual atmosphere with today’s hottest music playing ,..”
The statement comes out of the gate with guns blazing, having fully accepted its clientele as someone who might in fact find Asian décor or music overwhelming. In its place they offer the splashy post-trendy faux Asian black and red color schemes of a John Woo film, with Kanji text artfully placed, and murals of honorable and fierce horseback warriors paneling the walls. The hottest music of today that they advertise, consisted of such new artists as Amy Grant’s “Baby, Baby” and Toni Braxton, bellowing Un-Break My Heart at sports bar decibels.

The inside of Kabuki: John Woo couldn't have done it better himself...
Kabuki Japanese Restaurant is a place where Sake bombs and California Rolls rule the roost, a place where much of what constitutes as sushi is rolled with cream cheese, deep fried and slathered in a sticky sweet sauce…but towards this end, it doesn’t do a half bad job.
The cocktails are smooth, the sake list one of the best I’ve seen in town, the service is friendly and attentive enough, and the décor, for all its redundant stylizing, still manages to pull off sexy and sheik.
Don’t come here looking for sushi that will change your life, don’t even think about coming here for an authentic or even a new experience, and skip the Pear Endive Salad…but if you’re in the area and want to soak in some of the Tempe Marketplace, with saketini in hand, this may be just what you’re looking for.
Located in the District at Tempe Marketplace, across from the Barnes & Nobles and Maria Maria, Kabuki Japanese Restaurant is one of 13 in the Arizona, Nevada & California areas. They boast both a regular and reverse happy hour, Monday through Friday.
480-350-9160 2000E. Rio Salado Parkway Tempe, AZ 85281
